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Your cart is empty.Norcold 618872 AC Heating Element (fits the 1200/1210 models).
Susan
Reviewed in the United States on September 7, 2024
This part was delivered on time and it works perfect!! Thank you! For a Monaco dynasty motorhome fridge was not working on electric so got ahold of a rv company that fixes these and told him what’s going on and got this part it works perfect now!!! Thank you!!!
Bubba Upper
Reviewed in the United States on September 24, 2024
OEM part
Zman
Reviewed in the United States on July 7, 2024
The rv refrigerator heating elements were the exact match. Replacement was very easy and fast. It took about 15 minutes. Saved hundreds of dollars in repair cost by doing it myself with only a few simple tools found in everyone’s basic tool box. A flat tip screwdriver, needle nose pliers and a multi meter. My unit actually required two elements. One was still good but I replaced both and keeps the one good element as a backup. I also had to replace the circuit board I bought that on Amazon also.Not rocket science but just a bit of mechanical and very basic electrical knowledge helped.Thanks Amazon. The correct parts and a reasonably lower cost than any RV dealer could get them to me for.
Cliff t.
Reviewed in Canada on April 7, 2022
Product worked as advertised
Christie L.
Reviewed in Canada on November 10, 2021
Wrong Product Number Listed on Item did not work had to return
guzzi
Reviewed in Canada on February 17, 2020
fonctionne très bien.Merci
Dave XYZ
Reviewed in the United States on May 28, 2018
Fits properly and currently working well in my Norcold fridge.
Tech-Guy
Reviewed in the United States on July 11, 2016
They were exact replacements. Got here quickly and got my fridge back online! If you have a Norcold 4 door 1200 Series refrigerator that needs a new set of 225 Watt 120 Volt heaters for the generator section of the absorber, then this is the right part. (Buy two and replace them both cause if one is out, the other one is probably about to go out as well.) Thanks!A little tip to those DIY folks that are diagnosing their own units. I am a 45 year veteran HVAC mechanic. I know a lot about Refrigeration, Air Conditioning, and Heating. That said, I never worked on these propane fired Ammonia absorbers in RV's. I did work 500 ton Lithium Bromide Absorbers that were fired by steam from very large natural gas fired steam boilers. The principle is the same. Just the refrigerant is "water" on a lithium bromide adsorber where ammonia is the refrigerant on these RV absorbers. So the tip is this. If you have the same scenario I had where sometimes the 5 amp glass fuse would blow and sometimes it doesn't after replacement, then there is a good chance that one of the two elements is going bad. I have two very good Fluke multi-meters and when I was first doing the diagnosis, both heaters ohmed out at the resistance specified in the service manual of around 63 ohms. However in my case, my meter was showing some very high resistance to the case of the heater. (Meg-Ohms) many cheap meters will not read this. It shows up easly with a megohmmeter. Not a lot of people own these meters and they are too expensive for a DIY person to justify buying one. But what I visually noticed is that the new heaters have a white colored teflon looking area the yellow and black wires go into at the heater. My old ones looked very melted away and part of the copper in the wire was showing at the point of connection on the heater. A slight amount of movement of the yellow wire (hot leg) on one of the two heaters caused the wire to disconnect itself from the resistive element in the metal case and the wire fell out of the heater. This was not caused by tugging on it, but one should be able to pull lightly on the wire and not have it pull out of the heater. So now it visually became "The" bad heater that was intermittently blowing the fuse. The other heater didn't look very good where it enters the heater casing either. I replaced both. Now I'm going to replace the thermistor inside the box so that I can lower the setting from 9 back down to a resonable number and have the fridge nmaintain 38 degrees and the freezer maintain 0 or below. Hope this helps others...
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